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Which DDR Is Which? Here Is A Full Guide To RAM.

Many computer enthusiasts know exactly what they want when they go to configure their new system. They’ve researched and picked out a perfectly matching CPU, motherboard and videocard combination that will meet all their needs. However, when it comes to RAM many users become totally befuddled. They generally know how much RAM they need (1GB is the effective operating minimum these days, 2GB if running Vista or using hungry apps like Photoshop), but they don’t have a clue as to what DDR1, DDR2 or DDR3 means.

It turns out that selecting the proper DDR variant is a very important factor that determines how your overall system will perform, thus every enthusiast/prosumer/gamer should be well-advised to learn the basics.

Double Data Rate DIMM is known as DDR-DIMM, DDR DIMM, or most popularly just plain DDR. Double Data Rate interfaces provide two data transfers per differential clock. The data becomes registered when the CK goes high [the + side], and /CK goes low [the - side]. DDR1 utilizes the JEDEC standard for Double Date Rate [DDR I] SDRAM. Like all DDR RAM it is available as registered or unbuffered. Registered DIMMs are generally known as FB-DIMMs and have their address and control lines buffered in order to reduce signal loading. FB-DIMMs are considerably more expensive than unbuffered DIMMs and are generally reserved for server use. There are very few enthusiast/prosumer/gamers utilizing FB-DIMMs in their rigs. Unbuffered DIMMs don’t feature address lines and control line buffering, so they cost quite a bit less. However, they may be system-loading limited and are thus generally restricted in the number that can be fitted onto one system. You’ll find that most unbuffered DIMMs these days can only be installed on one motherboard to a maximum of 4 x 1GB. Buffered or registered DIMMs don’t have these limitations and server boards can accomodate 8 x 1GB, 16 x 1GB or more. An interesting and largely unknown aspect of unbuffered DDR DIMMs is that they are able to operate one clock cycle faster then FB-DIMMs.

DDR2 memory is the second generation in DDR memory. DDR2 begins with a speed level of 400MHz as the lowest available while the 400MHz speed is actually the highest speed for DDR1. Therefore, DDR2 picks up where DDR1 leaves off. It’s a bit strange but due to different latencies a 400MHz DDR1 will outperform a 400MHz DDR2, but the advantage returns to DDR2 as soon as the speed reaches the next step 532MHz, which DDR1 cannot reach.

It follows that DDR3 is the third generation in DDR memory. DDR3 begins with a speed level of 800Mbps as the lowest available, and once again as in the DDR1/DDR2 comparison, DDR3′s 800Mbps lowest speed is also used as the highest speed for DDR2. (No, geekizoid engineers rarely make it easy on the layman.)

Adding to customer confusion is that RAM is often referred to as a DDR-number or a PC-number. (The Revenge of the Geekizoids continues.) Here is the Transfer Rate Chart for the various DDRs:

DDR1 Transfer Rate

DDR SDRAM: Double Data Rate SDRAM (DDR200, DDR266, DDR333 are standard)

PC1600 (DDR-200 SDRAM); Clock Speed: 100MHz, Data Rate: 200MHz, Throughput 1600MB/s

PC2100 (DDR-266 SDRAM); Clock Speed: 133MHz, Data Rate: 266MHz, Throughput 2100MB/s

PC2400 (DDR-300 SDRAM); Clock Speed: 150MHz, Data Rate: 300MHz, Throughput 2400MB/s

PC2700 (DDR-333 SDRAM); Clock Speed: 166MHz, Data Rate: 333MHz, Throughput 2600MB/s

PC3000 (DDR-366 SDRAM); Clock Speed: 183MHz, Data Rate: 366MHz, Throughput 2900MB/s

PC3200 (DDR-400 SDRAM); Clock Speed: 200MHz, Data Rate: 400MHz, Throughput 3200MB/s

DDR2 Transfer Rate

DDR2 SDRAM: Double Data Rate SDRAM II (Quad Edge Clock Rate, 1.8v signaling), Second Generation

PC2-3200 (DDR2-400 SDRAM); Clock Speed: 100MHz, Data Rate: 400MHz, Throughput 3200MB/s

PC2-4300 (DDR2-533 SDRAM); Clock Speed: 133MHz, Data Rate: 532MHz, Throughput 4300MB/s

PC2-5300 (DDR2-667 SDRAM); Clock Speed: 167MHz, Data Rate: 667MHz, Throughput 5300MB/s

PC2-5400 (DDR2-675 SDRAM); Clock Speed: 167MHz, Data Rate: 667MHz, Throughput 5400MB/s

PC2-6400 (DDR2-800 SDRAM); Clock Speed: 200MHz, Data Rate: 800MHz, Throughput 6400MB/s

DDR3 Transfer Rate

DDR3 SDRAM: Double Data Rate SDRAM III (Quad Edge Clock Rate, 1.5v signaling), Third Generation

PC3-6400 (DDR3-800 SDRAM); Clock Speed: 100MHz, Data Rate: 800MHz, Throughput 6.40GB/s

PC3-8500 (DDR3-1066 SDRAM); Clock Speed: 133MHz, Data Rate: 1066MHz, Throughput 8.53GB/s

PC3-10600 (DDR3-1333 SDRAM); Clock Speed: 166MHz, Data Rate: 1333MHz, Throughput 10.67GB/s

PC3-12800 (DDR3-1600 SDRAM); Clock Speed: 200MHz, Data Rate: 1600MHz, Throughput 12.80GB/s

Now which CPU/chipset matches which RAM? It would take an encyclopaedia to list all the CPUs and all the chipsets and their “best-fit” DDRs. Before finalizing your system configuration you should research your CPU manufacturer’s RAM recommendations and fit that exact type of DDR to it. You would be just as foolish in using a PC3-12800 DDR3-1600 with an AMD Sempron 2800+ as you would be to burden down your Intel QX6800 with a PC1600 DDR-200. Every CPU/chipset combo has its proper DDR fit, and you should find out exactly what they are and stick to them. Fitting a slower than recommended DDR to your system will bottleneck critical RAM functions and could slow your otherwise very speedy system to a tortoise crawl.

There are many other factors involved in choosing the right RAM for your rig. Latencies are critical, but the details are too extensive to include here and will form the basis of a future blog. There are also a mind-boggling array of RAM brand names and pricepoints. Generally, you get what you pay for and as long as you are comparing various brands at the same retailer, the price will be a fairly good indicator of quality. Some of the leading manufacturers include:

Centon

Corsair

Crucial

Kingston

OCZ

Patriot

A couple of more points to remember. First, RAM heat spreaders may or may not be worth the extra cost. I can see that they would be useful only in the tiniest minority of high-load, prolonged-heavy-use situations. Don’t ever touch your RAM (or other PC internal components) without being thoroughly grounded with a good static strap. Static can zap your circuitry before you know it.

If you follow these guidelines and thoroughly research the proper DDR for your system, you’ll be rewarded with years of speedy and trouble-free computing. A bit of prior study is a small price to pay!

credit to : http://hubpages.com/hub/DDR1__DDR2__DDR3_Navigating_The_RAM_Maze

The Interface (EIDE / SCSI)

The hard disk can have a huge impact on the performance of your PC: The fact is that the rotating magnetic media of the hard disk is one of the severest performance bottlenecks, causing second-long delays while fat programs spin off the disk and into RAM. Whereas disk access times are measured in milliseconds, system RAM performance is counted in nanoseconds. Understanding hard disk operation – and optimizing – can eliminate teeth-grinding delays.

The factors that affect the speed of a Hard disk:

• Rotation speed
• Number of sectors per track
• Seek time / head switch time / cylinder switch time
• Rotational latency
• Data access time
• Cache on the HD
• How data is organized on the disks
• Transfer rates
• Interface (EIDE / SCSI)

What are sectors, tracks, heads and cylinders?

On a Hard disk, data is stored in the magnetic coating of the disk. The so called head, held by an actor arm, is used to write and read data. This disk rotates with a constant turn time, measured in revolutions per minute (rpm). Data is organized on a disk in cylinders, tracks and sectors. Cylinders are concentric tracks on the surface of the disk. A track is divided into sectors. A Hard disk has a head on each side of a disk. Nowadays, the actuator arm is moved by a servo-motor (not a step-motor which needs more time while swinging in after moving over the desired track). All harddisks have reserved sectors, which are used automatically by the drive logic if there is a defect in the media.

Rotation speed

Typical harddisks have a rotation speed from 4,500 to 7,200 rpm, a 10,000 rpm drive just hit the market. The faster the rotation, the higher the transfer rate, but also the louder and hotter the HD. You may need to cool a 7200 rpm disk with an extra fan, or its life would be much shorter. Modern HD’s read all sectors of a track in one turn (Interleave 1:1). The rotation speed is constant.

Number of sectors per track

Modern harddisks use different track sizes. The outer parts of a disk have more space for sectors than the inner parts. Usually, HD’s begin to write from the outside to the inside of a disk. Hence, data written or read at the beginning of a HD is accessed and transferred faster rate.

Seek time / head switch time / cylinder switch time

The fastest seek time occurs when moving from one track directly to the next. The slowest seek time is the so called full-stroke between the outer and inner tracks. Some harddisks (especially SCSI drives) don’t execute the seek command correctly. These drives position the head somewhere close to the desired track or leave the head where it was. The seek time everyone is interested in is the average seek time, defined as the time it takes to position the drive’s heads for a randomly located request. Yes, you are correct: seek time should be smaller if the disk is smaller (5 1/4″, 3 1/2″ etc.).

All heads of a Hard disk are carried on one actuator arm, so all heads are on the same cylinder. Head switch time measures the average time the drive takes to switch between two of the heads when reading or writing data.

Cylinder switch time is the average time it takes to move the heads to the next track when reading or writing data.

All these times are measured in milliseconds (ms).

Rotational latency

After the head is positioned over the desired track, it has to wait for the right sector. This time is called rotational latency and is measured in ms. The faster the drives spins, the shorter the rotational latency time. The average time is the time the disk needs to turn half way around, usually about 4ms (7200rpm) to 6ms (5400rpm).

Data access time

Data access time is the combination of seek time, head switch time and rotational latency and is measured in ms.

As you now know, the seek time only tells you about how fast the head is positioned over a wanted cylinder. Until data is read or written you will have to add the head switch time for finding the track and also the rotational latency time for finding the wanted sector.

Cache

I guess you already know about cache. All modern HD’s have their own cache varying in size and organization. The cache is normally used for writing and reading. On SCSI HD’s you may have to enable write caching, because often it is disabled by default. This varies from drive to drive. You will have to check the cache status with a program like ASPIID from Seagate.

You may be surprised that it is not the cache size that is important, but the organization of the cache itself (write / read cache or look ahead cache).

With most EIDE drives, the PC’s system memory is also used for storing the HD’s firmware (e.g. software or “BIOS”). When the drive powers up, it reads the firmware from special sectors. By doing this, manufacturers save money by eliminating the need for ROM chips, but also give you the ability to easily update your drives “BIOS” if it is necessary (Like for the WD drives which had problems with some motherboard BIOS’ resulting in head crashes!).

Organization of the data on the disks

You now know, a Hard disk has cylinders, heads and sectors. If you look in your BIOS you will find these 3 values listed for each Hard disk in your computer. You learned that a Hard disk don’t have a fixed sector size as they had in earlier days.

Today, these values are only used for compatibility with DOS, as they have nothing to do with the physical geometry of the drive. The Hard disk calculates these values into a logical block address (LBA) and then this LBA value is converted into the real cylinder, head and sector values. Modern BIOS’ are able to use LBA, so limitations like the 504 MB barrier are now gone.

Cylinder, heads and sectors are still used in DOS environments. SCSI drives have always used LBA to access data on the Hard disk. Modern operating systems access data via LBA directly without using the BIOS.

Transfer rates

In the pictures you can see the several ways how data can be stored physically on the Hard disk. With a benchmark program that calculates the transfer rate or seek time of the whole Hard disk you can see if your drive is using a ‘vertical’ or a ‘horizontal’ mapping. Depending on what kind of read/write heads and servo-motors (for positioning the actuator arm) are used it is faster to switch heads or to change tracks.

Currently there are 2 different common interfaces: EIDE and SCSI. You will find an EIDE controllers integrated with the motherboard and that EIDE harddisks are much cheaper than SCSI drives. For SCSI you need an extra controller, because there aren’t a lot of motherboards with integrated SCSI controllers. Together with the higher price of a SCSI disk a SCSI system is more expensive than EIDE.

The EIDE interface has a primary and a secondary channel that will connect to two devices each, for a total of four. That could be a Hard disk, CD-ROM or disk changers. Lately there have been tape backups with EIDE connectors, but you need special backup software.

Scanners for example aren’t available with EIDE interface, only with SCSI. You can connect up to 7 devices to a SCSI bus or 15 devices to a Wide SCSI. In a standard environment, the performance of single Hard disk won’t improve much from the SCSI interface. Rather, the power of SCSI is that several devices can use the bus at the same time, not using the bus while they don’t need it. So, we see the best benefit from SCSI when several devices are all used on the same bus.

On one EIDE channel, the 2 devices have to take turns controlling the bus. If there is a Hard disk and a CD-ROM on the same channel, the Hard disk has to wait until a request to the CD-ROM has finished. Because CD-ROM’s are relatively slow, there is a degradation of performance. That’s why everybody tells you to connect the CD-ROM to the secondary channel and your Hard disk to the primary. The primary and secondary channels work more or less independently of one another (it’s a matter of the EIDE controller chip).

The SCSI interface comes in several types. 8-bit (50 wire data cable) or 16-bit (68 wire data cable, Wide SCSI). The clock can be 5 MHz (SCSI 1), 10 MHz (Fast SCSI), 20 MHz (Fast-20 or Ultra SCSI) or 40 MHz (Ultra-2 SCSI).

Possible transfer rates of the SCSI bus
SCSIbus clock	8-bit (50 wire data cable)	16-bit (68 wire data cable, Wide SCSI)
5 MHz (SCSI 1)	5 Mbytes/s	NA
10 MHz (Fast SCSI, SCSI II)	10 Mbytes/s	20 Mbytes/s
20 MHz (Fast-20, Ultra SCSI)	20 Mbytes/s	40 Mbytes/s
40 MHz (Fast-40, Ultra-2 SCSI)	40 Mbytes/s	80 Mbytes/s

The theoretical transfer rate of EIDE is up to 16.6 Mbytes/s in PIO mode 4 or multi DMA mode 2 (soon 33.3 Mbytes/s) with all the problems you may have already faced. Here you will find a table of several interfaces and their speeds. However, today’s CD-ROM’s often use PIO mode 3, while older device use PIO mode 0 to 2. Sometimes devices lie about the PIO mode they support. There are harddisks that say they are able to use PIO mode 2 but they only work reliably in PIO mode 1! Whenever you get errors accessing your Hard disk, try to lower the PIO mode first!

Possible theoretical transfer rates of the IDE bus (ATA)
single word DMA 0	2.1 Mbytes/s
PIO mode 0	3.3 Mbytes/s
single word DMA 1, multi word DMA 0	4.2 Mbytes/s
PIO mode 1	5.2 Mbytes/s
PIO mode 2, single word DMA 2	8.3 Mbytes/s
Possible theoretical transfer rates of the EIDE bus (ATA-2)
PIO mode 3	11.1 Mbytes/s
multi word DMA 1	13.3 Mbytes/s
PIO mode 4, multi word DMA 2	16.6 Mbytes/s
Possible transfer rates of Ultra-ATA (Ultra DMA/33)
multi word DMA 3	33.3 Mbytes/s

It is not only the interface transfer rate that determines how fast a Hard disk is. How fast the data can be written or read from the media, e.g. data density and rotation speed is more important. The fastest interface can’t do anything faster than the ‘inner values’ of a Hard disk are capable of. Today, most harddisks are still under 10 Mbytes/s transfer rate physically. A faster interface is advantageous on when data is read from or written to the cache in a multitasking environment with several devices accessed simultaneously.

Multitasking environments especially benefit from SCSI, since simultaneous access occurs frequently. If you have a server or are working with large files like audio, video or disk-intense applications, you will benefit more from SCSI than EIDE. There are three reasons for this:

• All modern operating systems now supports SCSI very well. Windows 3.x didn’t!
• Bus mastering really works better with a SCSI bus mastering controller.
• The fastest harddisks with the best performance are SCSI.

If you need large capacities and the highest transfer rates available on the market you need SCSI. This is not because EIDE is incapable of this, it’s because of the market. High-end disks with high capacities and high performance are intended to be used in servers and aren’t build with EIDE interface. At the moment, EIDE disks are only built with up to a 5 Gigabyte capacity (there is a problem with a 4 GB barrier with some BIOS’s again and for drives bigger than 8 GB you need a new BIOS that supports the INT 13 functions AH=41h bios 49h) and transfer rates of about 9 Mbytes/s. If you need more, you’ll have to use SCSI. Also, SCSI harddisks have larger cache RAM than EIDE harddisks.

Performance, some thoughts

You need to know how a slow or fast Hard disk affects your overall system performance in a standard environment. If your operating system isn’t constantly swapping (e.g. you have enough memory) the speed of a Hard disk is only a small part of a well balanced system. Let’s say you have a Hard disk that has 30% better performance than another older one; the benefit for standard applications would be from 2% up to 18%. Sometimes, you want or need the fastest components available. Other times, more capacity and reliability is needed.

There are several programs available that test the performance of a Hard disk. Some are crap, others are good. In any case, if you have one, you get numbers that tell you something. But do you have a point of comparison? Different benchmarks mean different numbers. Different environments mean different numbers. Modern benchmarks are independent from existing data on the Hard disk (only read performance testing can be done). But a benchmark could be affected by several things:

• To which channel is the Hard disk connected
• Is the Hard disk alone or together with other devices connected to the controller
• Under which operating system is the Hard disk tested and used
• Which drivers are loaded or not loaded.
• Testing at Monday or Friday etc.

The File System

It is very important and I recommend you to go through my previous chapters again.

Upgrading Your Hard Disk

Choosing a Disk Type

There are many parts to a hard disk that a real “gear head” might argue are important in selecting a new drive. Most people really only use one criterion when considering which HD to choose: cost. You can get into a lot of trouble if that is your sole consideration, and I speak from experience. Here are the basic things to consider when comparing, in order of importance:

• Interface type, such as EIDE (Enhanced Integrated Drive Electronics). The interface type goes without saying. You wouldn’t buy a SCSI (Small Computer System Interface) HD if all you have is an IDE controller, unless you want to add the benefits of a fast SCSI drive without eliminating the existing IDE drive.
  
• Also, make sure to match the controller with the drive. An Ultra Fast SCSI drive will not be “Ultra Fast” if you only use a SCSI 2 controller. The same can be said for an EIDE (Enhanced Integrated Drive Electronics) HD and an IDE controller.
  
• Maximum formatted storage capacity. HD manufacture’s and vendors usually quote you the maximum storage capacity, which is always more than the formatted capacity due to many factors including file system (FAT16, FAT32, NTFS), cluster size or allocation unit, type of files being stored, and so on.
  
• Transfer rate. The transfer rate is the rate at which the drive and controller can send data to the system. The greater the value, the better. Ultra Fast Wide SCSI subsystems hold the current record at 40M/sec.
  
• Rotational speed (RPM). Rotational speed and transfer rates are closely related. The faster the RPM, the more data passes under the read/write head in a set period of time, allowing for higher total transfer. Faster is not always better, however. The faster the RPM, the more chance you have to drop some data. Not a problem for digital video, as in AV drives, but not so good for your spreadsheet.
  
• Average seek time (also known as access time). The access time is the amount of time that lapses between a request for information and its delivery. The lower the value, the better. Most modern HDs have an access time of 10ms or less.
  
• Cost per megabyte. This is a good way to compare two drives of different storage capacity. For example, the IBM 12G drive cost $349 (349/12,000M), which translates to about 3 cents per 1M. A 1G drive costing $99 ran me 10 cents per 1M; therefore, I’m getting a better deal with the larger drive even though it might cost me more.
  
• Onboard cache (or just cache). Onboard cache acts as a buffer for data being transferred to and from the HD. The larger, the better.

Adding a SCSI Drive to an IDE System

If you would like to free yourself from the bindings that IDE imposes on you, but can’t bear the idea of pitching a perfectly functional IDE drive, consider adding a SCSI drive as your upgrade instead of another IDE/EIDE drive. This will allow you to take advantage of the greater performance/expandability that SCSI has to offer, while retaining your current investment. And if you ever decide to invest in a new SCSI-based system, you can take the SCSI drives with you while retaining a completely functional IDE system.

In an IDE/SCSI system, the IDE drive must be the boot drive. Very few computer systems have the ability to allow the SCSI drive as the boot drive with an IDE drive installed.

Planning the Installation

Once you have decided on the type of drive to buy (and you’ve picked out a controller, if necessary), it’s time to plan your actual installation process. Drive upgrades are usually straightforward, but proper planning is the key to avoiding problems later on.

Data Backups

Before you attempt to perform any type of HD upgrade, you should perform a full system backup of your current hard disk’s). If you are replacing a disk outright, a backup is vital for restoring your work to the new disk. If you are adding a second drive, a backup is not quite so critical, but will still protect you in the event you might accidentally lose data on your original disk.

Backups can take many forms: you can use floppy disks, SyQuest cartridges, Iomega Zip or Jazz cartridges, or any type of tape drive. Most of these drives come bundled with some form of backup software, so once the “backup drive” is connected, you should be able to start the backup software and proceed almost automatically.

Power Considerations

Power is the first issue to consider. A typical hard disk requires about 10 watts of power for proper operation. This may not sound like much, but you must be sure that your power supply is able to provide that much power. Otherwise, your supply may become overloaded. Overloaded supplies often cause unpredictable PC operation, or prevent the PC from booting at all. In extreme cases, a severely overloaded power supply can even break down. Here are some rules to help avoid power problems:

• If you’re just replacing an existing hard drive with a new one, power should not be a problem.
  
• If your system has not been upgraded before, it can usually support an extra drive without any problem.
  
• If your system has been significantly upgraded already, pay attention to the system’s operation after you add a new drive. If the system behaves erratically, you may need a higher voltage power supply.

You also need to have a 4-pin power connector available for the new drive. If you’re just replacing an existing hard disk outright, you can just reuse the power connector on the replacement drive. When adding a new drive, be sure that there is an extra power connector available from the power supply.

If you don’t have a power connector available, you can purchase a Y-connector that splits an existing connector into two separate connectors. You simply remove a power connector from a drive, install the Y-connector, plug one arm of the Y-connector back into the original drive, and you’ve got a spare connector for that new drive.

Choosing a Drive Bay

You also need to decide where your drive is going to go in the system. When replacing a drive outright, you can simply reuse the original drive bay. If you are adding a second hard disk, you need to locate an unused drive bay. Large desktop and tower chasses often have several drive bays available. You may have to hunt for an open bay in a mini-desktop enclosure.

Drive bays are typically referred to as external and internal. External drive bays are located behind those plastic plugs you see on so many plastic housings. Floppy disks, CD-ROM drives, and tape drives all demand these external drive bays. Internal drive bays are little more than metal brackets inside the chassis where you can bolt a drive securely. Because you do not need to insert or remove anything from a hard disk, you can use external or internal drive bays.

Most hard drives are 3 1/2 inches in size, so if you want to use a 5 1/2-inch bay, you need to use mounting brackets. These mounting brackets and slides usually come with the drive but can be purchased separately from a local computer store if necessary.

Drive Configuration

Configuration of your new hard disk is paramount to its proper function. Examine your new drive and locate any jumpers . For an IDE/EIDE drive, there are typically three ways to jumper the drive:

• As the only hard disk
  
• As the primary disk in a two-disk system
  
• As the secondary (slave) disk in a two-disk system

If the hard disk is to be the only one in your system, the factory settings are usually correct. In this case, the jumper is not being used. You can skip to the next section.

When you use the new disk as a secondary drive–that is, the second drive on the same ribbon cable–make sure it is jumpered as the slave drive, and set the original disk so that it is the master drive. This is the least intrusive method to adding a new disk to your system. You will still boot from the original drive with all files intact, but you just see an additional drive letter show up in your Windows 95 Explorer window (or File Manager if in Windows 3.x).

An EIDE controller can have two separate chains, each with its own master and slave drive for a total of four devices.

Making the new drive the master can get a bit messy. Because the drive is new, it will not have an operating system on it and will not boot. On an IDE/EIDE system, the master drive (the C: drive) has to be the boot drive. Therefore, you have to reinstall your OS on the new drive in order to use the system. All files should still be intact on the original drive; it will just be the next logical drive, usually D:. To get around this limitation, install the new drive as the slave. Boot the system, and duplicate the entire old disk to the new one. Shut off the system and switch master/slave status. Reboot the system to test. If all works well, you can reformat the old drive and you are ready to rock.

Is Your Controller IDE, or Is It EIDE?

It’s OK to use the same controller with the new drive, but unless the controller is an EIDE controller, you will not be able to take advantage of all the performance enhancements of your new drive. If your controller is embedded in the motherboard and you are not sure if it is IDE or EIDE, look for a Primary and a Secondary controller. If you have these two controller, it is EIDE; only EIDE supports four devices (two on each connection). If you only have one controller (IDE), check your BIOS (Basic Input Output System) setup to see if you can disable the on-board hard drive controller. If so, you can buy an EIDE controller card and use it instead.

SCSI disks are a bit easier to configure because you need only select the proper device ID for the drive. By convention, the boot disk (the C: drive) in a SCSI system is set as ID0, and a second SCSI disk (the D: drive) can be set as ID1.

If your new SCSI disk falls at the end of a SCSI bus, you also need to install a set of SCSI terminating resistors on the drive. Fortunately, SCSI kits typically include terminating resistors, and provide specific instructions on how to install the terminators. Make sure to check the installation manual that came with your SCSI controller card. It’s not always simple to terminate a SCSI chain; it depends on the type of controller (for example, some controllers support both internal and external SCSI chains, and both need termination).

NOTE: IDE/EIDE and SCSI hard disks can coexist in the same system, but you cannot boot a PC from a SCSI disk if there is an IDE/EIDE disk in the system as well. IDE/EIDE disks automatically take precedence. If you need to boot from a SCSI disk, you have to remove any IDE/EIDE disks from the system first.

Installing a New Drive

Now that you’ve determined what type of drive configuration you have in the previous section, you can install the new drive. This section is divided into similarly appropriate parts, with steps common to all new installations here.

Before You Begin, You Need:

• A  screwdriver
• An open drive bay (either 51/4- or 31/2-inch)
• Slide rails
• 3 1/2- to 5 1/4-inch mounting brackets (if you are putting the drive in a 5 1/4-inch bay)
• Mounting screws (come with the drive)
• Proper length ribbon cable

---

1. Shut down, turn off, and unplug the PC.

2. Open the system.

3. Discharge your static.

The following sections are specific to the type of drive configuration, and you should skip to the section that suits your needs.

Replacing an IDE Drive

This section describes the process of replacing a drive in a single drive system. For information on adding a new drive, skip to the next section.

TIP: It is highly recommended that you replace your old IDE controller with a new EIDE controller. The additional cost is more than worth it in performance gains.

1. Locate the old drive, unplug the power connector and the 40-pin ribbon cable
Remove the 4-pin power connector.
Remove the 40-pin IDE ribbon cable.

2. Locate and remove the mounting screws. These are found either on the side of the drive bay or in front
Remove the drive mounting screws.

3. Carefully slide the drive out, making sure not to snag any other cables or wires in the process.

4. Remove and save any mounting brackets, slide rails, and screws that may be attached. You can reuse them on the new drive. That’s the surest way of getting a good fit.
Remove the old drive.

5. Attach any mounting brackets and/or slide rails from the last step to the new drive.

6. Check the position of the key in your 40-pin ribbon cable. This key assures the correct alignment of the cable to the drive.

TIP: Don’t panic if your ribbon cable does not have a key; not all do. There will be one colored wire at the side of the cable to indicate the #1 pin position, and the drive will also indicate this pin on its underside

7. Slide the new drive in place of the old one, and replace all mounting screws.

CAUTION: When securing a hard disk, be extremely careful to avoid stripping or cross-threading a mounting hole. An unevenly mounted drive will vibrate excessively. This can lead to premature drive failure.

8. Reattach the ribbon cable, noting the position of the key, or the #1 pin position.

9. Reattach the 4-pin power connector.

TROUBLESHOOTING: My system doesn’t even start when I turn the power on. What happened? You may have inadvertently replaced the ribbon cable reversed (#40 wire to the #1 pin). Turn the power off and double-check that the #1 pin positions are lined up.

Adding a New EIDE Drive

This section describes the installation of an additional EIDE drive to a system with an IDE/EIDE drive already installed. This will be the most likely scenario because most people are unwilling–no matter how old and slow the old drive was–to simply discard it; it probably cost more than the new one! If this isn’t you, you can skip to “Adding a New SCSI Drive” or back to “Replacing an IDE Drive.”

Follow these steps to add a new EIDE drive:

1. Locate an open drive bay for your new drive, preferably one as close to the original drive as possible. The reason for this is the limited distance between drive connectors on the ribbon cable.

2. Attach any mounting brackets and/or slide rails, as required by your particular case design, to the new drive and slide it into place. Note that some cases do not require any mounting brackets (3 1/2-inch bays) or slide rails.

3. Check to see if you have an available 4-pin power connector; most systems will have at least one or two spares. If not, you can purchase a Y-connector that will split the power off one of the other power connectors.

4. Attach the 4-pin power connector to the new drive.

5. Attach an available drive connector from the 40-pin ribbon cable–note the key in the connector and the notch in the drive to the new drive.

NOTE: If you have an EIDE controller and the secondary IDE connector is unused, you can attach an additional 40-pin ribbon cable to it to control your new drive. In that case, the jumper settings on both the new drive and the old would be set to MASTER, because these controllers function as two separate controllers. The next device on either cable, whether hard disk or CD-ROM drive, would then be set to SLAVE.

There you have it. A new drive is born. Now you are ready to move to the next phase, “Preparing and Formatting the Drive.”

Adding a New SCSI Drive

In this section, you learn how to add a new SCSI hard drive to your system. If you don’t have to complete this task, skip to the next phase “Preparing and Formatting the Drive,” or refer to the earlier sections “Adding a New EIDE Drive” or “Replacing an IDE Drive.”

About the Controller Card

The actual process of installing the card is no different than any other expansion card you might add (see Chapter 6, “Basic Device Configuration and Installation”). Very few new motherboards come with an embedded SCSI controller, as EIDE does, and neither do most home systems you might want to upgrade.

The first thing to note is that most SCSI controllers can have both an internal chain and an external chain, and both need to be terminated

Most internal connectors appear similar to the IDE counterpart except bigger– 50 pins instead of 40 pins. The exception is an Ultra Wide SCSI connector (16-bit path rather than the standard 8-bit) which is actually visually smaller but uses 68 pins. External connections can be different, too. Some older controllers use a 50-pin connector that resembles a parallel port. Most newer controllers use a 50-pin mini-connector or a 68-pin mini-connector for Ultra Wide. There are adapters available to change from one kind of connector to another, in the event a device you want to connect uses a different connection.

Compatibility and Recommendations

As you are beginning to see, there is not quite the same standardization in the SCSI world as there is in the IDE. This is one reason SCSI has been relegated to the world of the “high-end” machine or computer geek. Only these people were willing to take the time to understand all the factors necessary for a properly functioning SCSI subsystem.

With this in mind, I recommend you purchase an Adaptec SCSI controller card because it is the most standardized SCSI board out there. In fact, Adaptec has been pushing the standardization of SCSI for years. The ASPI Advanced SCSI Programming Interface was once Adaptec SCSI Programming Interface, before they turned it over to public domain. There are other SCSI boards out there with as good, if not better, price/performance ratio, but the headache you could get with incompatibilities and poorly written device drivers isn’t worth the difference.

Also note that the SCSI board has its own connection for the LED lights that flicker on the outside of your case to let you know there is some hard drive activity going on. It’s not necessary to connect this, but some people like to use these lights for diagnostic reasons, or just because it looks cool.

Termination

Termination is one of the most important factors in setting up your SCSI subsystem. In a nutshell, the last device on a SCSI chain–internal and external–needs to have termination enabled. This can be accomplished in different ways, depending on the device, but this fact holds true of all SCSI chains.

For example, if you have only two devices–a controller card (yes, it counts as a device) and an HD–they both need to be terminated. It’s usually automatic for the controller; you do not need to do anything (not always the case if you are not using an Adaptec controller, though). The HD will have either terminating resistors that plug into the underside of the drive or have a jumper/dip switch to set, as in the case of the IBM Ultrastar ES 2.16G Ultra SCSI hard disk I used in this upgrade. Now add another device to this party, like an internal SCSI CD-ROM drive. If you were to install it between the HD and the controller, no termination is necessary. On the other hand, if you installed it after the HD, you would need to remove the termination from the HD and terminate the CD-ROM drive.

Got it? Think so, huh? Let’s add an external scanner to this scenario. Both the scanner and the HD (or CD-ROM, in the last case) need to be terminated. Why? The controller card auto-terminates. In the case where the only devices were internal, the card was one terminator and the drive was the other. Both ends were terminated. When you added the external device, the controller card becomes non-terminated and the scanner becomes the other end of the chain. Now the scanner is one terminator and the internal drive is the other.

Simple, right? The bottom line is you need two terminating devices in any SCSI chain–one at both ends.

Setting SCSI IDs

Each device on a SCSI chain has its own unique ID called its SCSI ID. You choose this ID either through jumpers or switches, and they can be set to any number from 0 to 7. This has no relation to the device’s physical orientation on the SCSI chain, nor does it affect termination in any way. There are some general rules though:

• The boot disk is usually set to ID 0.
• The host adapter is usually set to ID 7.

Some new SCSI devices are supporting SCAM (SCSI Configured Automatically), where the host adapter assigns the unique IDs at boot up automatically. If your devices support this, be sure to enable this feature in the host adapter’s BIOS, as described in the next section.

Configuring the Host Adapter

The SCSI controller card (also known as the host adapter) uses its own BIOS, similar to the motherboard BIOS, to configure the devices under its control. These settings are different for each host adapter, but in general there are a few important features you should learn about that are common to all:

• Extended BIOS translation. Enabling this feature allows MS-DOS 5.0 and above, including Windows 95, to support drives larger than 1G. This option is not necessary under OS/2 or Windows NT.
• BIOS support for bootable CD-ROM. Enabling this feature allows you to boot your system from special bootable CD-ROMs.
• Plug and Play SCAM support. SCAM automatically assigns a unique SCSI ID to any device attached to the SCSI chain that supports this feature.
• Target Boot ID. This is the SCSI ID of the disk you want to boot from. With SCSI, you can choose which disk you want to boot from, unlike with IDE.

Preparing and Formatting the Drive

Now that you’ve installed your new drive, made all the proper connections, and replaced the case cover, you need to let the computer know the new drive is there. This is done through the BIOS Setup program.

CMOS Considerations

The CMOS (Complementary Metal-Oxide Semiconductor) is the chip that holds the information your motherboard’s BIOS has recorded on it. Some people use these terms interchangeably.

The BIOS reads the system information contained in the CMOS, and then checks out the system and configures it. Next, the BIOS looks for an operating system on the boot drive (drive 1 or C: drive), launches that OS, and then turns control over.

Once the BIOS setup is activated, most new BIOS’s have the IDE HDD Auto Detection option. This is a great improvement over older BIOS programs that required you to know things like the cylinders, heads, sectors, and so on. You need to go through this process so your computer can register the new drive and make it “visible” to your OS.

In case you have one of these older BIOS’s or the auto detect didn’t correctly ID your drive, you need to enter this information manually. Your new drive will most likely have this configuration information printed on a label pasted to the top of the mounting chassis. You might also find the information on the manufacturer’s WWW site. Here’s a list of hard drive manufactures you can call:

Conner	408-456-3200
IBM	914-765-1900
Maxtor	408-432-1700
Western Digital	714-932-5000
Quantum	408-894-4000
Seagate	408-438-8222

Because every BIOS works a bit different, you need to read the BIOS Setup instructions that came with your computer, but some general instructions follow:

1. Go to User Defined Settings.

2. Enter the parameters from your drive. Usually, only the Cyls (cylinders), Heads, and S/T (number of sectors per track) are necessary; landing zone and capacity are usually not required.

The Meg field should then reflect the drives’ unformatted capacity in megabytes.

---

NOTE: Be sure to save your changes before exiting a CMOS Setup routine. If you forget to save, the new disk’s parameters will be lost, and the drive will not be recognized.

---

Translating BIOS

It is important to note that not all older BIOS’s will be able to recognize disk drives larger than 504M. Those that do are called translating BIOS’s. Even if your BIOS correctly identifies the new drive’s parameters, it doesn’t mean the BIOS will translate those parameters. Here’s how to check:

1. While at the BIOS Setup screen, look for a setting called LBA, Large Block Access, or Translation, and enable the option.

2. Check if the Auto configure Drive Type returns a heads value greater than 16; if so, you are probably OK.

3. Call your computer’s vendor and/or manufacturer and ask.

What do you do if you don’t have a translating BIOS? You can upgrade your BIOS (see Chapter 7, “Working with the BIOS,” for help), or you can use software utilities like EZ-Drive that comes with all Western Digital hard drives over 528M (which is all of them these days), or Ontrack Disk Manager. The software works; I’ve used it. It does have some limitations, so read the instructions carefully and weigh these limitations against the cost of an upgraded BIOS.

Credit to : http://oldfiles.org.uk/powerload/fat32/fat10.htm

Solution 1

Start > Run > GPEDIT.MSC

> Computer Configuration
> Administrative Templates
> System
> System Restore

Set Turn off System Restore to Not Configured
Set Turn off Configuration to Not Configured

credit to : P.ramlie

solution 2

Start > run > type ‘regedit’ > HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\WindowsNT\CurrentVersion\SystemRestore
Kalau value “DisableSR” xder, prgi klik Edit >> New >> DWORD value, pastu buatlah value “DisableSR” tu…

Setkan kpada 1….

credit to : kukurue

solution 3

1) If you receive an error message when trying to use the System Restore tool, be sure to make a note of the error message and follow any contained instructions. Most of the errors will give a description of the error and instructions to help you resolve the issue.2) Be sure that you have plenty of disk space available where your System Restore tool is enabled.

3) Be sure that the System Restore tool is actually running. here’s how you can tell:

A. Go to Start>> Run. Type in: compmgmt.msc [Enter] or click OK
B. In the Computer Management window, expand the Services and Applications category.
C. Click Services
D. Scroll the right pane until you see System Restore Service listed. be sure that it says “Started”. If it says “Stopped”, then you will need to double click the entry and click the “Start” button to start the System Restore Service.

4) Try running System Restore in Safe Mode.

5) Try viewing the event logs to determine a probable cause of the error. here’s how:

A. Go to Start>> Control Panel
B. Select Administrative Tools
C. Click on Computer Management
D. Expand Event Viewer
E. Select System

When viewing the event logs, it will make it easier to click the “Source” tab to sort the events by name. You will then be looking for errors named “sr” or “srservice”. Once you have identified the logs, you can double click the log to view a description of the error and a possible resolution.

 

credit to : http://www.5starsupport.com/xp-faq/1-105.htm

Laptop atau Desktop? Persoalan ini mungkin timbul seandainya anda ingin membeli komputer peribadi baru samaada untuk kegunaan diri sendiri ataupun keluarga. Di sini disenaraikan beberapa kelebihan dan kekurangan dalam memiliki sama ada laptop atau dekstop – pilihan di tangan anda.

Adakah saya suka mengembara? Atau saya kerap melakukan kerja di luar pejabat?

Jika anda berada dalam kategori ini, maka laptop adalah pilihan yang paling sesuai untuk anda. Tidak kira sama ada untuk tujuan perniagaan atau sekadar melancong, anda akan dapati bahawa laptop adalah pilihan yang paling ideal untuk anda.

Sekiranya anda seorang yang suka melancong, anda dapat memasukkan gambar yang diambil menggunakan kamera digital dengan mudah– anda hanya perlu memindahkan gambar yang diambil ke dalam komputer sekiranya ruang di kad memori hampir penuh, maka anda tidak perlu bimbang untuk membeli lebih banyak kad memori . Selain itu, anda dapat menonton CD video kegemaran anda yang dibeli di mana-mana tempat anda melancong dengan segera. Jika anda seorang ahli perniagaan, maka urusan perniagaan anda akan bertambah mudah, dan segala maklumat pelanggan berpotensi kekal dan mudah untuk ditambah ke dalam laptop anda.

Tidak kira sama ada anda pelancong atau ahli perniagaan, anda boleh mengakses ke internet dengan mudah dan percuma di kebanyakan tempat perlancongan serata dunia, termasuk Malaysia. Dengan kemudahan hotspot di kebanyakan tempat di seluruh negara, terutamanya di lapangan terbang dan hotel perlancongan, anda dapat memanfaatkan teknologi Wi-Fi sekiranya ia disertakan sekali bersama-sama laptop anda. Selain itu, anda juga dapat memanfaatkan teknologi 3G masakini pada laptop anda dan dapatkan akses berkelajuan tinggi ke internet dengan mudah tanpa had di mana-mana tempat anda pergi.  

Adakah laptop benar-benar ‘portable’ dan fleksibel?

Kenyataan ‘mudah untuk di bawa ke mana-mana’ untuk laptop sebenarnya adalah terhad. Katakan, sekiranya anda membeli sesebuah laptop, dan setelah beberapa ketika anda menggunakannya, anda akan dapati bahawa anda perlu menambah beberapa aksesori lain bagi memenuhi keperluan anda, misalnya hard disk dan DVD+RW. Jika anda tidak bernasib baik, ruangan pada saiz laptop anda yang terhad memaksa anda menggunakan aksesori tambahan ini secara external – dengan kata lain, anda harus membeli hard disk external atau DVD+RW external yang dipasang pada port USB, berbanding dengan Desktop di mana ia boleh dipasang di dalam Mini Tower Casing. Dan tidak pula lupa untuk disebut – peralatan aksesori external adalah jauh lebih mahal berbanding dengan aksesori internal. Misalnya, hard disk yang dipasang secara internal (di dalam laptop atau desktop) adalah lebih murah dari hard disk external.  

Bagaimana dengan penyelengaraan dan servis? Mana lebih mudah? Dan lebih murah?

Secara amnya, menservis dan menyelenggara desktop PC adalah lebih mudah berbanding dengan laptop. Anda bebas membuka dan memasang perkakasan/hardware di desktop PC dengan mudah berbanding dengan laptop, terutamanya ketika komputer anda menghadapi masalah dengan perkakasan/hardware. Satu kekurangan laptop ialah kos menservis atau menaik taraf adalah lebih tinggi dan mahal. Misalnya, harga untuk sekeping modul memori (RAM) laptop boleh mencecah sehingga dua kali ganda harga RAM dengan spesifikasi yang sama untuk desktop. Selain itu, pemilihan komputer desktop memberikan anda kelebihan untuk menaik taraf PC dengan mudah berbanding laptop lantaran ruangan casingnya yang jauh lebih sempit dan terhad.  

Adakah anda peminat games atau permainan PC?

Jika jawapan anda adalah ya, maka desktop adalah pilihan paling ideal bagi anda. Ini kerana anda akan mendapat kualiti video yang lebih mantap di monitor CRT yang didatangkan bersama-sama komputer desktop. Selain itu, anda mungkin ingin meningkatkan prestasi graphics card dan sound card anda dari semasa ke semasa. Maka dengan PCI slot dan ruangan Mini Tower Casing yang lebih besar, penambahan atau penukaran expansion card untuk tujuan naik taraf prestasi PC akan menjadi lebih mudah dan murah.  

Apakah yang sesuai untuk pelajar?

Secara amnya, laptop adalah pilihan paling ideal untuk para pelajar terutamanya penuntut di mana-mana Institusi Pengajian Tinggi. Ini bagi memudahkan pelajar dan penuntut untuk mencatat nota, menyampaikan persembahan di dalam kelas dan tidak kurang juga untuk melayari internet melalui sambungan Wi-Fi ke hotspot yang sudah boleh didapati di kebanyakan IPT tempatan.

Tetapi, bagi pelajar yang ingin mendalami hobi PC, seperti mengenali hardware, memasang dan menyelenggara perkakasan/hardware komputer, maka desktop adalah pilihan yang paling ideal lantaran reka bentuknya yang memang amat sesuai bagi mereka yang ingin mendalami ilmu hardware PC – yakni anda dapat membuka, menambah sebarang aksesori dalaman pada komputer desktop anda.

Harga

Dari segi harga, laptop & desktop lebih kurang je, jika budget rm 1700 sudah memadai untuk mendapatkan sebuah laptop + free bag & mouse.. silap2 boleh dapat CD-R kosong percuma!!.. tapi kalau nak buat perbandingan, daripoada segi spec.. memang laptop akan kurang.. dengan budget rm 1800, kita cuma boleh dapat spec AMD Turion atau Intel celeron saje, ram 1Gb dan Hdisk 120GB.. kalau ikut, memang dah mencukupi.. tapi kalau nak di bandingkan dengan desktop, Rm 1800 boleh dpt Intel Core2 duo 1.7-2.0ghz dan 2Gb ram serta Hdisk 160GB…opss.. blh dpt LCD 19” jgk..hehhe.. kebiasannya dari segi baik pulih, harga bagi komponen laptop akan jadi 2-3kali ganda daripada desktop

Jadi, tepuk dada, selok poket!

p/s : kalau mampu, belli dua2 terus.. puas hati!

> Boleh layari : http://www.lowyat.net untuk senarai harga barang terkini!

 credit to : wakz

 

 

 

 

 

Hi, salam..

bagi kengkawan yang lupe password user account @ saje2 nak ceroboh PC kawan2 ni carenye :

restart pc > tekan F8 ( pilih safe mode ) > login administrator account > user account > remove password > save ..

lepas tu restart pc , then login secara Normal.. User account masih ade, tapi password dah hilang…

selamat mencuba!

credit to : Wakz

ALT + Tab = Switch between windows

ALT, Space, X = Maximize window

CTRL + Shift + Esc = Task Manager

Windows key + Break = System properties

Windows key + F = Search

Windows key + D = Hide/Display all windows

CTRL + C = copy

CTRL + X = cut

CTRL + V = paste

Also don’t forget about the “Right-click” key next to the right Windows key on your keyboard. Using the arrows and that key can get just about anything done once you’ve opened up any program.

Keyboard Shortcuts

[Alt] and [Esc] Switch between running applications

[Alt] and letter Select menu item by underlined letter

[Ctrl] and [Esc] Open Program Menu

[Ctrl] and [F4] Close active document or group windows (does not work with some applications)

[Alt] and [F4] Quit active application or close current window

[Alt] and [-] Open Control menu for active document

Ctrl] Lft., Rt. arrow Move cursor forward or back one word

Ctrl] Up, Down arrow Move cursor forward or back one paragraph

[F1] Open Help for active application

Windows+M Minimize all open windows

Shift+Windows+M Undo minimize all open windows

Windows+F1 Open Windows Help

Windows+Tab Cycle through the Taskbar buttons

Windows+Break Open the System Properties dialog box

Acessability shortcuts

Right SHIFT for eight seconds…….. Switch FilterKeys on and off.

Left ALT +left SHIFT +PRINT SCREEN……. Switch High Contrast on and off.

Left ALT +left SHIFT +NUM LOCK……. Switch MouseKeys on and off.

SHIFT……. five times Switch StickyKeys on and off.

NUM LOCK…… for five seconds Switch ToggleKeys on and off.

Explorer shortcuts

END……. Display the bottom of the active window.

HOME……. Display the top of the active window.

NUM LOCK+ASTERISK……. on numeric keypad (*) Display all subfolders under the selected folder.

NUM LOCK+PLUS SIGN……. on numeric keypad (+) Display the contents of the selected folder.

NUM LOCK+MINUS SIGN……. on numeric keypad (-) Collapse the selected folder.

LEFT ARROW…… Collapse current selection if it’s expanded, or select parent folder.

RIGHT ARROW……. Display current selection if it’s collapsed, or select first subfolder.

Type the following commands in your Run Box (Windows Key + R) or Start Run

credit : http://sembangcikgu.com

step 1

My Computer — tools — folder Options — View — Show Hidden Files( clik pada tanda )… pas tuh ko ko right clik My Computer … Masuk Manage– Disk Management– Clik pada C: . just OPen saje

step 2

cari file autorun.inf – delete kan , gantikan dengan software di bawah :

Download FlashDisenfector.exe

credit to : budak nakal

how to remove by manual
Follow these steps to completely remove this worm:
1-Start>RUN
2-Write CMD
3-In CMD,write “Taskkill /T /IM “RVHOST.EXE”
then open a Notepad Start>RUn
4-Write “NOtepad”
5-in notepad paste these lines kat bawah ni

On Error Resume Next
Set shl = CreateObject(“WScript.Shell”)
Set fso = CreateObject(“scripting.FileSystemObject”)
shl.RegDelete “HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\Curr entVersion\Policies\System\DisableRegistryTools”
shl.RegDelete “HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\Curr entVersion\Policies\System\DisableTaskMgr”
shl.RegDelete
6- save the notepad as “Enable.VBS” and the change the file type to “All”
7-double click “Enable.VBS”
8-now Start>Run. Write “Regedit” in it and press enter
9- Do the following changes in Registy

In the left panel, double-click the following:
HKEY_CURRENT_USER>Software>Microsoft>
Windows>CurrentVersion>Run
In the right panel, locate and delete the entry:
Yahoo Messengger = “%System%\RVHOST.exe”
(Note: %System% is the Windows system folder, which is usually C:\Windows\System on Windows 98 and ME, C:\WINNT\System32 on Windows NT and 2000, and C:\Windows\System32 on Windows XP and Server 2003.)–>
Removing Other Entry from the Registry

Still in Registry Editor, in the left panel, double-click the following:
HKEY_CURRENT_USER>Software>Microsoft>Windows>
CurrentVersion>Policies>Explorer
In the right panel, locate and delete the entry:
NofolderOptions = “1″
Restoring Modified Entries from the Registry

Still in Registry Editor, in the left panel, double-click the following:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE>SOFTWARE>Microsoft>Windows NT>
CurrentVersion>Winlogon
In the right panel, locate the entry:
Shell = “Explorer.exe RVHOST.exe”
Right-click on the value name and choose Modify. Change the value data of this entry to:
Explorer.exe
In the right panel, double-click the following:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE>SYSTEM>CurrentControlSet>
Services>Schedule
In the right panel, locate the entry:
NextAtJobId = “2″
Right-click on the value name and choose Modify. Change the value data of this entry to:
1
Close Registry Editor.
Deleting the Malware File(s)

Right-click Start then click Search… or Find…, depending on the version of Windows you are running.
In the Named input box, type:
AT1.JOB
In the Look In drop-down list, select My Computer, then press Enter.
Once located, select the file then press SHIFT+DELETE.
Note: AT1.JOB is a Sheduled Task so you can find this in C:\WINDOWS

credit to : ayoi

solution 1

STOP: 0xC000021A {Fatal System Error}”

step 1

Start > run > Taip regedit. Pergi ke….
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Winlogon

step 2

Click winlogon folder dan lihat pada GinaDLL REG_SZ value. Klu ade value selain dari “Msgina.dll”, Leh buang je. Klu tak jumpe ape² entry lain, ia menggunakan default.

maklumat lanjut : SINI.

credit to : Mohd panda